Paddington, Sydney, January 2016
On a blustery evening when the Sydney streets had been washed as clean as the new year, TVC joined the well-heeled (and well-jacketed, well-hand-bagged, well-skirted and well-suited) at Guillaume in Darcy’s Building, This smart three-storey-terrace is set, rather incongruously, in an otherwise ordinary (if up-market) suburban street.
Slightly odd too, is sitting in the elegant revamp of what feels as if it had once been someone’s living room. Slightly too minimalist for TVC but – hold the presses! this means that the tables are acres apart and it is all lovely and quiet. This is not a place for shrieking children, scraping shoes or shouting over one another.
Although TVC chose á la carte over degustation, choice is still a little limited in that the diner has all 4 courses (with a choice between 4 dishes in each course). But it is not such a hardship. The food is superb, Frenchified, delicate yet satisfying. For us, the highlights were the savoury custard amuse bouche, the sashimi seafood with peach, the best pork belly, and the strawberry dessert.
The staff are all impossibly European, as polished as the décor, and excel in that mix of friendliness without servility or pushiness which is found only in top-notch European-influenced Australian restaurants (Vue de Monde, Pendolino, Magill Estate – that is, Magill Estate proper, not the more down-market Kitchen).
And you leave Guillaume with brioche and jam so that you can (sort-of) relive the experience at breakfast tomorrow in your cluttered, noisy hotel room or shambles of a home.