July, 2015
The Vanished Culture had previously enjoyed the street level, race trim sister, Bistro Vue. But nothing had prepared us for Vue de Monde – 55 levels steeper and taller than its sister in every way.
Degustation is a horrible word but, since Vue de Monde, it is one of The Varnished Culture‘s favourites. We took our phlegmatic Melbourne relative N (a chicken-and-chips man) there mid week and even he was impressed – although you wouldn’t know. Don’t go there if you don’t like culinary experimentation and weirdness. Strange and magical little courses were served (and explained) by enthusiastic staff, the youngest one so new that he shook with nerves.
A bread-crumbed marshmallow amuse-bouche substituted for the non-seafood eater P. Crystals of a silvery liquid were tossed across the table. Apparently decorative rocks and twigs were pressed into service. John Lethlean apparently regards the cutlery as ‘frankly – vulgar’ – frankly, this surprises. It is odd to situate a fancy restaurant in an erstwhile office floor (and warning, the prices are above the reach of your average clerk) but it works – decked out in black and shiney – Vue de Monde is as elegant as it gets.
THE MENU
Oyster Salt cured wallaby Burnham Beeches quail egg Jerusalem artichoke
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Cauliflower, almond
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Prawn, cauliflower, almond
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Kangaroo, foraged mushrooms
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Duck yolk, pear, macadamia, truffle
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Cucumber, wood sorrel
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Marron, moonshell clams, mudcrab, fennel Duck, eggplant, quinoa
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Barramundi, cabbage, red wine
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Flinders Island lamb, leek, apple
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Blackmore Wagyu, variations of turnips
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Butternut squash, sunflower seeds, passionfruit
~ Pear, celeriac, lemon myrtle
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Chocolate, berries
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A selection of petit-fours
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2010 Rimbert, Saint-Chinian, France
2013 Shaw & Smith, Adelaide Hills, South Australia
One might ask, reading the menu above. “where’s the food?” but although the portions were nouveau-cuisine miniature, one felt full about 70% of the way. Waiters are genuinely and infectiously enthusiastic about the fare but we were given plenty of time and space to talk as well, which is welcome.
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